Choosing a resort

What to do in a ski resort without skiing? Snowshoes, sledging, ice rinks, spas: the resorts with the most to offer

A mountain holiday always includes someone who does not ski — or no longer does, or not yet. Our resort pages list for each resort the named, mapped non-ski activities: sledge runs, snowshoe trails, ice rinks, pools, thermal centres. Here are the resorts where you do not get bored without skis.

Chamonix, the resort where you can spend a week without clicking in
Chamonix, the resort where you can spend a week without clicking in — photo B. Brassoud, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

In a group of six going skiing, there is often one who does not ski: a grandparent, a knee, a child too small, someone who does not like it. For them, the resort is judged on something other than kilometres of pistes. Our resort pages list, resort by resort, the named non-ski activities — not “varied activities”, but the sledge run, the ice rink, the thermal centre, with their commune and distance. Here is what they bring out.

Snowshoeing and walking: everywhere, but not alike

Almost all resorts mark snowshoe trails. The difference is in the length and the view. The plateaux — Les Saisies in the Beaufortain, the Vercors at Autrans and Villard-de-Lans, the Capcir at Font-Romeu — offer kilometres of groomed paths, flat or nearly, without taking a lift. The steep valleys — Chamonix, the upper Tarentaise — require going up by gondola with a pedestrian pass to find the same terrain.

Cross-country skiing is the gliding version of the same idea. Our pages list the named, measured trails: Mouthe, in the Jura, lines up 246 km of distinct track; Les Rousses 132; Métabief 84. In the Alps, Les Saisies, Autrans and Bessans are the big areas.

Sledging: a facility apart

A secured sledge run — marked, groomed, separated from skiers, sometimes with its own lift — exists in only a minority of resorts. Where it does, it is often the children’s favourite activity of the week. Our pages show it when it is mapped.

The big resorts have added rail sledges, open summer and winter: Les Saisies, La Plagne, Les Arcs, Avoriaz. A run costs the price of a coffee; it is the kind of activity that fills a bad-weather afternoon.

Water: pools, ice rinks, thermal baths

Three different things that brochures blur together.

The ice rink is the most common facility: most resorts with more than 100 km of pistes have one, often outdoors.

The pool or aqua centre has become the purpose-built resorts’ argument: Aquamotion at Courchevel, Aquariaz at Avoriaz, the aqua centre at Val Thorens. These are leisure pools — slides, heated outdoor basins — and cost between €10 and €25 a visit.

Thermal baths are something else: cure establishments, in spa villages that were spas before they were ski resorts. Cauterets, Ax-les-Thermes, Le Mont-Dore, Brides-les-Bains, Saint-Gervais. You go for the balneotherapy, not the slide, and après-ski has a different face there.

The mountain towns

And then there are the resorts that are first of all towns: Chamonix, Megève, Briançon below Serre Chevalier, Barcelonnette below Pra-Loup. You spend a week there without clicking in — museums, markets, cinemas, real life out of season — and that is precisely what the purpose-built high-altitude resorts cannot offer. Chamonix, with its trains, its alpine museum and the Aiguille du Midi, tops our ranking.

What the ranking measures

The table below ranks resorts by number of non-ski activities listed nearby, all categories combined. It favours towns and big resorts, and rightly so: that is where there is most to do. To choose, look rather at the resort’s page and its list by category: what counts is that the activity your group is missing is there.

The richest resorts off the skis, by number of activities listed

Full ranking →
# Resort Range Activités hors skiRaquettes / piétons
1 Aime 2000 Northern Alps 8 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, spa, bowling, patinoire, cinéma, piscine1 km
2 La Clusaz Northern Alps 8 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, luge sur rail, patinoire, cinéma, bowling, piscine1 km
3 La Plagne Northern Alps 8 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, cinéma, bowling, patinoire, spa, piscine1 km
4 La Plagne 1800 Northern Alps 8 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, cinéma, bowling, patinoire, spa, piscine1 km
5 La Plagne Centre Northern Alps 8 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, cinéma, bowling, patinoire, spa, piscine1 km
6 La Plagne Montalbert Northern Alps 8 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, spa, bowling, patinoire, cinéma, piscine1 km
7 Plagne Bellecôte Northern Alps 8 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, bowling, piscine, cinéma, patinoire, spa1 km
8 Plagne Soleil Northern Alps 8 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, cinéma, bowling, patinoire, piscine, spa1 km
9 Plagne Villages Northern Alps 8 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, cinéma, bowling, patinoire, spa, piscine1 km
10 Le Corbier Northern Alps 7 · raquettes / piétons, ski de fond, piscine, cinéma, luge sur rail, patinoire, bowling34 km
11 Gérardmer Vosges 7 · raquettes / piétons, luge, ski de fond, cinéma, patinoire, spa, piscine7 km
12 Arc 1800 Northern Alps 7 · raquettes / piétons, luge, bowling, patinoire, piscine, spa, cinéma3 km

Computed live from the resort pages with the same rule as the ranking page: this table moves when the data moves, not when the article is rewritten.

Frequently asked questions

Is there a pedestrian pass to ride the gondola without skiing?

In most big resorts, yes: a pedestrian pass gives access to certain lifts to go up for lunch at altitude or walk the groomed paths. It costs between €12 and €25 a day on the lists we read, and appears on our pages when the resort publishes it.

Is sledging possible everywhere?

No. A secured sledge run is a separate facility, and many resorts do not have one — or only a children's area at the snow front. Our pages list the mapped sledge runs, with their length when measured.

Which resorts have thermal baths?

The spa villages of the Pyrenees and the Alps: Cauterets, Luz-Saint-Sauveur, Ax-les-Thermes, Le Mont-Dore, Brides-les-Bains, Saint-Gervais. The big resort aqua centres — Aquamotion at Courchevel, Aquariaz at Avoriaz — are something else: pools, not cures.

The resorts in this article

What this article draws on

  • Non-ski activities: DATAtourisme (regional files, Open Licence), sorted on the feed's ontology — not on keywords — with the commune and the distance; completed by OpenStreetMap (sledge runs, snowshoe trails, ice rinks, pools within 3 km).
  • Cross-country skiing: named OpenStreetMap trails, length measured on the geometry.