Technique

Getting started in ski touring: the gear, the grades, and where to make your first climbs

Climbing on skins requires neither being a mountaineer nor going far: 323 French resorts have routes described within ten kilometres, and many mark out ascent tracks beside the pistes for learning. Here is what to know before the first outing — and where to do it.

The Haute-Maurienne, between Val Cenis and Bonneval, classic ski touring ground
The Haute-Maurienne, between Val Cenis and Bonneval, classic ski touring ground — photo Bundesheer Fotos from Österreich, CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons

Ski touring has changed its public in ten years: what was a mountaineers’ pursuit has become, at the edge of resorts, an endurance sport open to anyone who can stand on skis. What has not changed is the mountain. This article says what you need to start, how to read a grade, and where to find described routes — our pages list them for 323 resorts.

The gear: what changes from alpine skiing

Bindings. They free the heel for the climb and lock it for the descent. Two families: pin bindings (tech bindings), light, which require compatible boots; and frame or hybrid bindings, heavier, which accept ordinary alpine boots and release like an alpine binding. To start by renting, the second family is the safe choice.

Boots. A touring boot has a walk mode that frees the cuff, and a lugged sole. You can start with alpine boots on hybrid bindings — at the cost of a harder climb.

Skins. Strips of mohair or synthetic stuck under the ski, which glide forward and grip backward. They are cut to the ski’s shape, stored folded glue to glue, and dried away from the radiator.

The safety trio. Avalanche transceiver worn under the jacket and switched on, shovel and probe in the pack. Without exception, including on marked tracks in resorts — a closed piste, a neighbouring off-piste slope, and the ascent track crosses slopes that are not secured.

Reading a grade

The routes our pages list come from the Camptocamp guidebook, and each carries several grades.

The ski grade, S1 to S7, describes the technical difficulty of the descent. S1 is a gentle slope; S2 is a blue run; S3 a sustained red, with sections at 30-35°; S4, from 35-40°, is a slope where a fall no longer stops by itself; beyond begins steep skiing. A beginner stays in S2 and S3 for their whole first winter.

Exposure, E1 to E4, describes the consequences of a fall: E1, you slide and stop; E2, a fall may be serious because of obstacles; E3, it probably will be; E4, a rock band or a drop. An S3 E1 descent and an S3 E3 descent are not the same outing.

The vertical gain says the effort: 600 to 800 m is a reasonable first outing, 1,200 m a fine day, 1,800 m a mountaineer’s day.

Where to make your first climbs

On a marked track in a resort. More and more resorts mark an ascent track beside a piste, with a start, a finish and sometimes a warm room. There you learn the kick turn, skin adjustment and pace without the risk of wild terrain. Our pages show, for each resort, the kilometres of marked off-piste itineraries recorded on the map.

On a described route, in S2, with someone. Our pages list for each resort the routes described within ten kilometres: summit, vertical, ski grade, exposure, aspect, and the link to the full description. In the Haute-Maurienne — Val Cenis, Bonneval-sur-Arc, Aussois — the terrain is vast and regular; in the Queyras — Abriès, Saint-Véran — the slopes are gentle and the valleys quiet; the Beaufortain — Arêches — is the classic learning ground of the Savoyards.

Never alone, never without the bulletin. A beginner reads the avalanche bulletin for the range the day before, and turns back above danger level 2 — not because 3 is forbidden, but because they cannot yet recognise the slopes the bulletin points to.

The table below ranks resorts by number of ski touring routes described nearby.

Resorts for ski touring, by number of described routes

Full ranking →
# Resort Range Ski de rando balisé
1 Les Grands Montets Northern Alps 37 km
2 Le Tour Northern Alps 34 km
3 Artouste Pyrenees 31 km
4 Megève Northern Alps 25 km
5 Portes du Mont-Blanc Northern Alps 21 km
6 Gourette Pyrenees 21 km
7 Arc 1800 Northern Alps 18 km
8 Peisey-Vallandry Northern Alps 17 km
9 Le Somport-Candanchu Pyrenees 17 km
10 Piau-Engaly Pyrenees 17 km
11 Le Recoin Northern Alps 17 km
12 Arc 1950 Northern Alps 16 km

Computed live from the resort pages with the same rule as the ranking page: this table moves when the data moves, not when the article is rewritten.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a guide to start ski touring?

For the first outings away from a marked track in a resort, yes — or at least an experienced partner. A guide or an instructor teaches in a day what you would spend a winter guessing: the kick turn, managing skins, reading terrain. Many resorts offer half-day introductions.

What do the grades S2, S3, S4 mean?

It is the descent grade, from S1 (gentle slope, easy skiing) to S7 (extreme). S2 matches a blue run, S3 a sustained red, S4 a steep slope where a fall does not stop by itself. A beginner stays in S2 and S3. Exposure, graded E1 to E4, says what happens in a fall: E1, nothing serious; E4, a cliff.

Can you skin up the pistes of a resort?

Only on the tracks the resort has marked out for it, and outside grooming hours. Climbing an open piste against the skiers is banned almost everywhere, and dangerous; climbing at night on a piste being groomed is far more so — winch groomers stretch invisible cables.

The resorts in this article

What this article draws on

  • Ski touring routes: Camptocamp.org collaborative guidebook (CC BY-SA licence), within ten kilometres of each resort — summit, vertical, ski grade, exposure, aspect. We show only these facts and the link to the description.
  • Marked ascent tracks in resorts: resorts' official websites.